Ferrata Silvano De Franco
Edited by:
Ermanno Panara
Introduction
The Silvano De Franco via ferrata is a short but interesting route below the last 150 metres before the summit cross of Punta Cermenati, the highest point on Monte Resegone. Unlike many ferrate of medium difficulty, it is only equipped with a chain and a single stirrup, placed on the most demanding passage. The development is largely vertical, but the rock is perfect for a climbing progression, challenging but never too difficult. Nonetheless, it deserves a lot of concentration and commitment, both for a few slightly tiring passages and for not jamming the carabiners between the rock spikes and then risking having to unclimb to free them.Description
Approach
From the arrival of the cable car to the Piani d'Erna, descend to the vast plateau from which branch off the various itineraries for the summit of Resegone or for the return to the valley. Follow the signs for path no. 5 which, descending slightly, enters the wood and soon emerges from it and, halfway up the hillside and with several ups and downs, runs along the western side of the mountain. At a fork, you come to path no. 1, the normal route that leads to the summit of the Resegone. Follow the path, which is always clearly visible and climbs in a very sunny area to Pian Serrada, where it joins the Centenario ferrata. Continue along steeper and sometimes rocky sections until just before the summit, where it is possible to see the Azzoni refuge on the upper right. From there, along a path to the left, you come out at "Om de Sass" from where, by a short, slightly downhill stretch, you reach the start of the ferrata (about 1h 20' from Piani d'Erna).
From the start, climb up an initial spur that is well gripped but completely vertical to the summit. You then continue along a short path and reach a second spur, as vertical as the first, sometimes using the chain for easier progression. There are numerous handholds but the chain sometimes rests on the rock and makes it a little tiring to slide the carabiners. Continue vertically until reaching the key point of the ferrata: a somewhat overhanging section that can be overcome with the aid of a stirrup. Continue vertically until the end of the spur. Now it is necessary to unclimb the opposite side of the spur for a few metres, with the help of the chain from which, however, it is necessary to free oneself before putting one's feet on the level, as this ends higher up. Continue up vertical but well-climbed pillars. Sometimes the use of the chain is indispensable, but not excessively tiring. One then crosses on level ground, still following the chain, the notch that plunges into the Canalone Comera. Go over some more or less ridge-like rocks and then turn right in view of the Azzoni hut. Go over a ledge-balcony going downhill and you will come to the little path that leads to the summit cross.
Travel time for the ferrata alone: 45'.
We have been there
Edited by:
Rita Tarussello
Ferrata Silvano De Franco
Seconda ferrata della giornata, dopo la piÚ semplice del Centenario. Questo percorso, a differenza del primo, si caratterizza per l'assenza di aiuti artificiali, salvo una staffa nel punto chiave. La roccia fortemente appigliata rende però la progressione divertente pur se impegnativa. La catena di sicurezza complica spesso la salita perchè, essendo di grosso diametro, ostacola lo scorrimento dei moschettoni (Ermanno ha dovuto disarrampicare un tratto verticale a causa di ciò). Anche su questo percorso bisogna fare attenzione alla caduta di sassi. Ferrata breve ma intensa, da provare.