Ferrata 'Gamma 1' at Pizzo d'Erna

Access

From Milan to Lecco along the state road 36; exit at the "Lecco Centro" junction and follow the signs for "Valsassina". At the IPERAL shopping centre, turn right in the direction of "Funivia Piani d'Erna". Park in the cable car forecourt or, better still, in the dirt track at the last hairpin bend. 

Introduction

One of the first 'modern' ferratas in the Lecco area (dating back to 1979), very vertical in the first part (equipped to excess with dozens of metres of ladders), but with beautiful, totally climbable sections in the second climb. The entire route takes place in a very panoramic setting over Lecco, its lake and all the surrounding mountains. Given the type of rock - limestone - it is best to avoid excessive slipperiness in wet or humid weather. On arrival at the Piani d'Erna, several descent routes are possible (including the cable car): the shortest and quickest is described.

Description

From the forecourt near the last hairpin bend 603 m, continue among the brushwood on a wide track until you meet - a few tens of metres - a steep and very stony path which descends to the left; you reach a valley floor with a small asphalted road coming from Versasio: follow it to the right. After a few more steep ascents, you reach the end of the road near a large gate: continue to the left on a wide cobbled road; after a few minutes, a metal sign indicates the track for the ferrata on the left: it is a small path in the woods that climbs in hairpin bends and, after a scree slope, reaches the base of the rocks of Pizzo d'Erna. Here is a schematic description of the track: - Easy rocky ledge ascending to the right equipped with chains. - Long series of very vertical and exposed metal ladders. - Rocky sections with stirrups and chains alternating with other ladders. - Arrival at the bushy Cornesello shelf 940 m (possibility of descent to the right with an up and down path to the Stoppani hut). - Slightly uphill path with a few earthy rocks equipped with a handrail chain. - Beginning of the second ferrata section, with climbing sections and a few short steps. - Key section: nice exposed traverse and well climbable vertical ascent. - Short sharp ridge on natural and artificial holds. - Picturesque section on Tibetan bridge to climb over a landslide gully (can be avoided with a downward chain section and a vertical ladder). - Two ladders and a section of chain on a ledge. - Slightly uphill stony path to the last two rock jumps. - Steps (with antiquated and dangerous 'original 1979' safety cable) up to the first spur. - Metal footbridge to the base of the second spur. - A few chains and the last ladders to reach the summit rocks. - Chain handrail to the summit terrace of Pizzo d'Erna 1375 m. For the descent, follow the footpath as far as the cable car station; here the signs point to the bottom of the valley to the right: a flight of steps leads into the beech wood, which, winding along a tiring path, leads to Rifugio Stoppani 890 m. The route, now more comfortable and less steep, descends to the pretty village of Costa and from here, on a cobbled mule track through the woods, you return to the initial junction for the ferrata, where you continue along the outward route.