Grand Golliat

Access

Introduction

The Grand Golliat or Grand Golliaz is the culminating peak of an imposing rampart that forms the watershed between the Val Ferret (Italian and Swiss) and the Coumba Freida. This rampart is aligned on a south-north axis between the Col de Malatrà and the Col du Ban Darrey and has four notable elevations: the Aiguille de Belle Combe (3084m), the Petit Golliat (3224m), the Grand Golliat (3227m) and the Aiguille des Angroniettes (2893m). 

Description

The Grand Golliat, besides being the highest point of the rampart, is a valuable vantage point over the Mont Blanc chain and the Grand Combin and Mont Vélan. It is also the southernmost point in Canton Valais. The rampart is composed of very friable limestone, which makes progression treacherous. In the past, on the south-eastern slope, in the 'armchair' between Petit and Grand Golliat, there was a glacier of which only a few traces of a non-perennial snowfield remain. The northern slope is very steep and has some 'couloirs' that descend to the remnants of the Glacier des Angroniettes. The western slope, on the other hand, is totally detrital and unattractive. The toponym derives from the patois term 'Goilles', meaning puddle of water; in fact, the Comba Tula, traversed along the access to the eastern slope, is dotted with numerous water spots. The hypothesis of associating the name of the peak with the biblical giant Goliath, on the other hand, has no foundation. The first ascent of Grand Golliat took place in September 1879 by Lieutenant Cornaglia during his survey of the territory on behalf of the Military Geographical Institute of the Kingdom. Towards the end of the 19th century, there were other 'firsts' on slopes that had never been climbed: in 1892, Abbé Henry descended the north-west ridge and the north slope was subsequently climbed, on 5 July 1898, by Alfred George Topham, Jean Maître and Pierre Maurys. On 15 July 1896, on the other hand, the western slope was descended by Mario Gabinio and Luigi Galeani, demonstrating that this was a period of 'exploration' of the possibilities of ascending the summit. The west face was then climbed, with an exit on the north-north-west ridge, on 15 July 1898 by Adolfo Hess and Laurent Croux. In 1905, on 19 August, Marcel Kurz and Eberhard Philius climbed the north face by exiting on the east ridge, while in June 1918, Alessio Alvazzi and David Quaizier reached the summit by climbing the north north-west ridge. In more recent years, Osvaldo Cardellina has revisited the summit by following some interesting routes, including the first ascent on the west face on 19 September 1993 and the north face (left couloir) with the exit on the east ridge on 30 August 1997. The recent opening of the Piergiorgio Frassati Refuge could increase interest in this not very popular peak.

Information

Highlight: 3237m
Alternative name:Grand Golliaz
Mountain group:Grand Golliat Group
First ascent: ../09/1879
First ascentionist: Lieutenant Cornaglia