Everest

Introduction

Mountain long unknown and mysterious appeared in the eyes of George Everest, who christened it Peak XV. It was 1823 and a few decades later his successor in the direction of the Indian Topographical Service, Andrew Waugh, proposed in his honour to name the peak after him: it was 1863 and it still is. The local people call it Chomo Lungma or 'Mother Goddess of the Earth' and it is located on the border between Nepal and China.

Description

At 8,848.86 metres, Everest is the highest peak in the world, located in the Himalayan chain along the Nepal-China border, specifically in the Tibetan region. Its Tibetan name is Chomolungma, which means 'Mother Goddess of the Earth', while in Nepal it is known as Sagarmatha, 'Front of Heaven'. This mountain is the result of the collision of the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates, which continues to this day to lift the Himalayan chain by a few millimetres every year.

Geologically, Everest consists mainly of metamorphic and sedimentary rocks, such as limestone and shale, which testify to the marine origin of the area millions of years ago, before the tectonic collision formed the Himalayas. The extreme weather conditions, with winds that can exceed 160 km/h and temperatures below -60°C, make the mountain's climate among the most prohibitive in the world.

The mountaineering history of Everest is fascinating and marked by many heroic feats. The first ascent attempt dates back to the 1920s, when British mountaineers explored its slopes. However, the first successful ascent was only made on 29 May 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary, a New Zealander, and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepalese Sherpa, who became legendary figures. Since then, thousands of people have attempted the climb, but the difficulties, extreme cold, avalanches and low oxygen levels at altitude have led to many deaths. Everest is now one of the most popular destinations for mountaineers, but its popularity has also generated environmental problems, such as the accumulation of rubbish along the most popular routes.

Culturally, Everest has enormous importance for the local populations, particularly the Tibetans and Nepalese. It is considered a sacred place, inhabited by the gods, and the Sherpa people living at the foot of the mountain play a crucial role in expeditions, thanks to their resistance to altitude and their experience as guides. The Sherpas venerate Chomolungma as a divine entity, and each expedition traditionally begins with a religious ceremony, called a 'puja', to ask the mountain spirits' permission and protection. 

As well as being a challenge to man, Everest is also a powerful symbol of nature and its majesty, which continues to inspire adventure and respect.

Mountaineering History

The mountaineering history of Everest is a tale of exploration, ambition and technological innovation, spanning more than a century. Located in the Himalayan chain on the border between Nepal and China (Tibet), Everest, at 8,848 metres (subject to slight variations due to different measurements and the movement of tectonic plates), represents an extreme challenge due to its altitude, unpredictable climate and technical difficulty, requiring advanced experience in high altitude mountaineering.

First Explorations and Pioneering Attempts

The first explorations of the region date back to the early 20th century, with British exploratory expeditions under the auspices of the Royal Geographical Society and the British Alpine Club. The first mountaineering attempts began in the 1920s, with expeditions such as the 1922 expedition led by Charles Granville Bruce and the 1924 expedition, sadly noted for the disappearance of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine. The disappearance of Mallory and Irvine left a shroud of mystery for decades: their last sight near the summit raised the question of whether or not they had succeeded in completing the first ascent of Everest.

The 1953 Ascension and First Conquest

On 29 May 1953, Edmund Hillary (a New Zealander) and Tenzing Norgay (a Nepali Sherpa) finally succeeded in conquering the summit, using supplementary oxygen. Their ascent marked a milestone and represented the beginning of an era in which Everest became a symbol of conquest and determination. Hillary and Tenzing used the South Col route, one of the two classic routes, starting in Nepal and tackling the technical challenge of the Lhotse face, the South Col face, and the last section, known as the Hillary Step, a particularly complex rock section just below the summit.

The Challenge of Altitude and Extreme Conditions

The main technical difficulty of Everest lies in the 'death zone', an area above 7,900 metres where atmospheric oxygen is so rarefied as to cause severe breathing problems, mental confusion, and extreme fatigue, even for experienced and acclimatised mountaineers. In this area, the risk of pulmonary and cerebral oedema increases considerably, making supplementary oxygen necessary for most climbers, although there have been pioneers (such as Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978) who have reached the summit without artificial oxygen, proving that the human body can adapt to such conditions, albeit at great risk.

Ascent Routes: South Col and North Ridge

The two main ascent routes are the South Col Route (from Nepal) and the North Ridge Route (from Tibet). The South Col Route, although technically complex and with passages such as the Khumbu Icefall (a section of glacier characterised by unstable crevasses and dangerous seracs), has become the most widely used. The North Ridge, on the other hand, is technically more difficult due to passages such as the Second Step, a nearly vertical 30-metre wall at an altitude of 8,600 metres, made famous by the attempted installation of a metal ladder to facilitate the ascent.

Recent Years: Tourism, Technologies and Critical Ethical Issues

In recent years, Everest has become the scene of mass tourism that has raised ethical and environmental issues. Modern technology has improved access and safety: climbers today have sophisticated GPS devices, advanced thermal clothing, and state-of-the-art oxygen equipment. However, the presence of large commercial groups and the so-called 'Everest traffic jam' pose a challenge. Overcrowding increases the risk of accidents, and the management of waste and bodies at high altitude remains a serious problem.

Records and Memorable Feats

Oxygen-free ascents, winter firsts (such as Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki's 1980 ascent), and record ascents (such as Kílian Jornet's speed record in 2017) have marked Everest's recent history, pushing human and technical limits to the limit.

Information

Quota: 8848m
Alternative name: Chomolongma
Mountain group: Mahalangur Himal
 First ascent: 29/05/1953
First ascenders: Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay
First winter ascent: 17/02/1980
First ascenders: Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy