Aiguille du Midi

Introduction

The Aiguille du Midi rises majestically to 3,842 metres in the Mont Blanc massif, in Haute Savoie, and is the highest point among the Aiguilles de Chamonix. Its sharp silhouette dominates the northern part of the chain, representing one of the most spectacular vantage points in the Western Alps and offering an unparalleled view of Mont Blanc and the main border peaks between France, Switzerland and Italy. The environment surrounding the summit is characterised by eternal ice, granite spires and glacial valleys, while the flora and fauna are typical of high altitude ecosystems, with extreme climatic conditions accentuated by the altitude and exposure.

Description

The mountaineering history of the Aiguille du Midi began in the 19th century, with the first documented ascent on 4 August 1818, when Antoni Malczewski, Jean-Michel Balmat and five guides reached the North summit. It was not until 1856 that Alexandre Devouassoux, Ambroise and Jean Simond reached the South summit, which is higher and today houses the main tourist facilities. Over the decades, the mountain has become the scene of memorable ascents linked to classic and modern routes: among the best known are the famous Frendo Spur (1944), the Rébuffat Route (1956), the Cunningham Couloir (1883), the Contamine Route (1957) and the spectacular Cosmiques Ridge. The south face, famous for its difficult granite and mixed climbing routes, hosts world-class routes, including Digital Crack, one of the most famous cracks in alpine sport climbing.
The geographical context is the Vallée de Chamonix, located in Haute Savoie (France), bordering the Courmayeur valley and the main ridge of Mont Blanc. The Aiguille du Midi belongs to the Graian Alps, according to the SOIUSA classification, and constitutes an orographic node of enormous importance for mountaineering and scientific research. The climate is typically glacial, with strong winds and sudden changes in temperature; the most favourable season for ascents is from June to September, when the snow is solid and access conditions are more stable.
The toponym 'Aiguille du Midi' derives from the French term for 'Needle of Noon', since the summit, seen from the valleys below, signals the direction of the south. The summit is deeply linked to the alpine culture of Chamonix and the world of European mountaineering: it is the starting point of the famous crossing of the Vallée Blanche and the Mont Blanc panoramic cable car, which connects the Aiguille to the Rifugio Torino and Punta Helbronner via an extraordinary cross-border glacier crossing. Since the 1950s, the Aiguille du Midi cable car has made the summit accessible, overcoming almost 3,000 metres in height difference and allowing hikers and mountaineers to reach high altitude environments in less than twenty minutes from Chamonix.
The summit is home to a series of scenic terraces and attractions of particular interest: the 'Door in the Void' is a glass structure suspended on the walls that allows one to 'float' at a height of 1,000 metres, while tunnels and galleries connect the summit station to the starting points of mountaineering and skiing routes. The main ascent routes branch off from the summit point, from the south-southwest ridge (classic and very popular in summer), to the Couloir Cunningham, to the Cosmiques traverse, with easy access to the main stages of the massif. The Refuge des Cosmiques, at 3,613 metres, is the main support point for ascents and traverses at altitude, flanked by terraces and cable car stations.

Information

Quota: 3842m
Alternative name: -
Mountain group:Chamonix Spire Range
First ascent: 04/08/1818
 First ascentionists: Antoni Malczewski, Jacques Balmat  and 5 other guides
 First winter ascent:
First ascenders in winter: