Edited by:
Massimo Martini
Gabriele Boccalatte was a leading figure in Italian mountaineering between the wars, remembered for his elegant and innovative style in both climbing and his vision of mountaineering. Born in Orio Canavese in 1907, Boccalatte devoted himself passionately to the mountains, distinguishing himself for his refined technique and ability to chart new routes, especially in the Mont Blanc massif, his favourite terrain. Having graduated from the Turin Conservatory as a pianist, he succeeded in combining artistic sensitivity with an alpinism oriented towards beauty and harmony of gesture, far from pure competition or exploratory aims.
Endeavours and Innovations
Between 1930 and 1938, Boccalatte traced pioneering routes such as the one on the east face of the Aiguille de la Brenva, on the west face of the Aiguille Noire de Peutérey and on the north-eastern pylon of the Mont Blanc du Tacul, which bears his name. These routes reflect his aesthetic approach, where the search for the beauty of the line prevailed over any other objective. With the support of illustrious companions such as Giusto Gervasutti, Renato Chabod and Ettore Castiglioni, and often with his wife Ninì Pietrasanta, also a talented mountaineer, Boccalatte wrote memorable pages in the history of climbing.
His masterpieces include the west face of the Punta Bich on the Aiguille Noire de Peutérey, climbed in 1935 with Ninì Pietrasanta and considered one of the most difficult and iconic routes of the time. Her activity also extended to the Dolomites and the Piedmontese Alps, where her routes expressed the same balance between technique and aesthetic sensitivity.
Bonding with Ninì Pietrasanta
The association with Ninì Pietrasanta was not only sentimental but also alpinistic: together they traced routes that represented the avant-garde of the time, such as the traverse of the Aiguilles du Diable or the first ascent of Pic Adolphe. Ninì, one of the first women to practice mountaineering at a high level, shared many of her most significant exploits with Boccalatte, leaving an indelible mark on the history of this discipline. Their relationship reflected a shared idea of mountaineering, uniting the human and technical qualities of both.
The Tragedy and the Legacy
On 24 August 1938, Boccalatte was killed during an attempt on the south face of the Aiguille de Triolet, swept away by a rockfall together with her companion Mario Piolti. His death marked the end of an era of heroic and romantic mountaineering. In his honour, the Boccalatte-Piolti hut, located on the Grandes Jorasses, perpetuates his memory, representing a point of reference for mountaineers tackling the west face of the Mont Blanc massif.
Bibliography and Awards
Gabriele Boccalatte left no written works, but his figure was recounted by Ninì Pietrasanta in the book "Piccole e grandi ore alpine", published posthumously in 1939. This diary, rich in details about his ascents and shared mountaineering philosophy, offers a valuable portrait of the man and the mountaineer. The figure of Boccalatte is mentioned in numerous historical texts, including "One Hundred Years of Italian Mountaineering" by Massimo Mila, which emphasises the uniqueness of his artistic approach to the mountains.
Chronology of Major Ascents
- 1928, 25 July: First ascent of the North-West Torrione of the Aiguillette du Tacul with Guglielmo Parmeggiani.
- 1929, August 17: First ascent of the Petit Capucin on the south face (normal or Boccalatte route) with Renato Chabod. 1930, August 31: First ascent of the East-Northwest Couloir (Couloir du Diable) on Mont Blanc du Tacul.
- 1935, August 1: First ascent of the west face and south ridge of Punta Bich, Aiguille Noire de Peutérey.
- 1936, August 28: Opening of the route on the north-east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul, which today bears his name.
- 1937, summer: First ascent of the north face of Mont Greuvetta with Ettore Castiglioni.
- 1938, August 17: Opening of the Gervasutti-Boccalatte route on the South-Southwest Pillar of Punta Gugliermina.
Final Thoughts
Gabriele Boccalatte's legacy lies in the unique combination of technique, sensitivity and vision of mountaineering as art. Each of his routes represents an expression of beauty and respect for the mountain, making him an indispensable reference point in the history of climbing. To visit the Boccalatte-Piolti hut and retrace his routes is to come into contact with the spirit of a man who experienced the mountains with unique depth.